Tuesday, March 18, 2008

The Catlins and Banks Penninsula: Coastal Calm and New Zealand Farewell










































































































































































































































The Catlins and Banks Penninsula : Coastal Calm and New Zealand Farewell
After leaving the quiet and slow pace of Stewart Island, it was a bit of a shock to see cars and traffic and trappings of modern times. We felt like we had slipped back in time on the island. Our desire for more bucolic tranquility was met in the Catlins. It is an area of about 80 ks in length in the southeast corner of the South Island, about 80 k from Bluff. There are few inhabitants, no banks and only a couple of general stores. The land is gently rolling , with sheep and cattle farms mostly, and some spectacular coastline scenery. We stayed in a cute century old cottage, and Griz had fun with the wood fire ( skills well developed on Stewart Island) and doing laundry , his favorite task. We had some great beach walks, saw a fantastic sunrise on the harbour across from our house, and saw lots of wildlife , including sea lions, penguins and dolphins ( but the dolphins were too far away to photograph) . It was a great stay.
After the Catlins, we headed north to the Banks penninsula, a scenic wonder, just 90 k west of Christchurch. The area was formed by former volcanos, with steep cliffs and fiord-like inlets around the former bowls of the craters. The main town, where we stayed in a spectacular new cottage, perched on a cliff, was beautiful . Akoroa, as the town is called has been called the Riviera of the South Island and has been a honeymoon and holiday destination since the turn of the century. There is a huge esplanade next to the harbour with palm trees, norfolk island pines and a few cafes around the wharf. The houses are Victorian cottages and well kept. We had several spectacular hikes up the cliffs with great views of the harbour and surrounding areas. The summit road, which runs on top of the crater rim for quite a distance offers great views, if a little scary driving. At one point we had to follow a double trailer stock truck up a 60 degree road that looked too narrow for our little car. There are many small farming and fishing communities along the penninsula from Christchurch. There are many art galleries, vineyards, olive groves and cheese factories around- a combination of agricultural and creative. The area was calm and scenic, but being a 2 hr drive from Christchurch, not as isolated as the Catlins. I could picture living here. Apparently many authors and creative types live here. It was with some regret that we packed our things for the last time, said goodbye to the owner's resident donkeys ( and even fed them some apples) and contemplated our lovely view. This afternoon , we head for the airport and our journey home. We will be glad to get back , but will definitely return to New Zealand. Farewell. Signing off the blog. Next stop.. London, Ont.



















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